2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru

Nicole Lamarche is still overseeing the construction of her new winery in Vosne-Romanée, and workers were busy with tiling outside the tasting room when I visited. This is a slightly shortened line-up since the Domaine was split and the métayage taken over by Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, where the Les Croix Rameau and Grands-Echézeaux transferred over to. As usual, all the wines are fully de-stemmed. The keyword here is elegance. These are not powerful wines, quite the opposite, and at times, I would like a bit more substance and grip. I like ethereal wines…but I don’t want them to fly away in the lightest breeze. But the La Grande Rue, the monopole opposite Romanée-Conti that Lamarche retained, does have weight and depth and is worth looking out for.