1999 Beaune 1er Cru

The Lafarges rely on bourgeonnage to control yields, and viticultural technique made a big difference in 2000, according to Frederic Lafarge. "We don't do a green harvest because that just mediatique(a media event)." No saignee was done because the crop level was not excessive. The Lafarges quickly harvested their Volnay vines in the days following the September 12 storm, sorting ruthlessly to eliminate less-ripe grapes, which Frederic maintained were more of a problem than rotten ones. This was the first vintage in which the domain was completely biodynamie The '99 Lafarge wines, incidentally, have turned out splendidly. Frederic says they're the domain's best since 1990, with even more obvious terroir specificity in their youth than the 1990s, which were dominated by the vintage character during their early years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges were able to hold yields to 45 hectoliters per hectare in their premier crus in '99 through extensive green pruning and subsequent green harvesting. Ripening was very homogeneous, Frederic Lafarge told me in November, typically in the 12.0% to 12.3% range; after chaptalization, the finished wines will be between 12.5% and 12.9% alcohol. Lafarge described the '98s as higher in acidity, more powerful vins de garde that are already closing up after the bottling last spring. In '99, the fermentations were hotter and more tumultuous. I found the new vintage less authoritative than the more sharply defined '98s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)