2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru

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“We were counting the days from flowering and estimating when we would pick,” said Guillaume d'Angerville, the most debonair winemaker in the Côte d’Or, when I visited his picturesque winery, which is actually within the Clos des Ducs. “As the season went on, we had 38°C in July. [Winemaker] François Duvivier came back from his holiday on August 10 and called me in Brittany. He said, “You have to come back.” So we brought the harvest date forward to August 19. Normally, we are on the later end of picking compared to others, but we were among the first to start. It was a difficult choice because we thought we might not have the phenolic maturity, but I didn’t want to risk high alcohol. The 2020 does not show the dryness or lack of rainfall, and I think the vines are adjusting to the change in the climate. The wines are becoming more classic with recent solar vintages since 2015. I also think biodynamics help. There is an extra element of distinction in the 2020, which shows purity, elegance and linearity. I would put 2019 and 2020 in the same group, whereas 2018 has slightly less tension.” The 2020s from d’Angerville benefit from that early picking, retaining a sense of balance and poise. They are quite serious Volnays that will benefit from longer cellaring than those from other producers. Predictably, the Clos des Ducs is Grand Cru in all but name, closely followed by a wonderful Les Champans.

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