2002 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Girardin cut his use of new oak drastically in 2003, to no more than 10% for most of his cuvees relying instead on a high percentage of 2002 barrels. All of the 2003s were acidified in cuve Girardin reported, and he will adjust them again if he feels they need it. A few of the malolactic fermentations were blocked, "if they did not take place early, with the rest of the wines. "Girardin told me he produced just 25 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2003, or about half a normal harvest. He started picking on August 24, two days after a rain shower which he feels "de-stressed the vines without lowering acidity levels. Before the rain there was less ripeness and less acidity. "Ultimately, the fruit came in with potential alcohol in the very high 14% to 14. 5% range, although Girardin noted that "the greater the soil, the less surmuri character the wines show. "Girardin expressed the opinion that the vines of Puligny-Montrachet were slightly favored in 2003, as there was a bit more rain here in the spring. The 2003s had not yet been racked at the time of my visit; Girardin planned to assemble them in August. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham AL numerous Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, Charlotte NC

Vintage 2002 brought elevated grape sugars, according to Girardin. The premier crus are 13.5% to 14% without chaptalization and the Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet is 14.7%," he told me. He was still stirring the lees of certain cuvees at the end of May and planned to bottle all his 2002s prior to the 2003 harvest. Girardin continues to reduce his percentage of new oak; in 2002 it was about 80% for the grand crus and 40% for the premier crus. He actually cut his prices in Euros for the 2001s, but noted that there was increasing demand for the 2002s. Girardin told me he likes his 2002s and 2000s more than his 2001s and 1999s, owing to the purity of the fruit in the even-numbered years. Girardin recently purchased 10 of Henri Clerc's 15 hectares of vines; in 2001 he made wines from Clerc's must, but in 2002 he vinified the fruit himself. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; numerous Girardin wines, reportedly identical to the Vineyard Brands bottlings in the case of the whites, are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)