2009 Montrachet Grand Cru (M)
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay (2017 vintage)
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2015 - 2015
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As you might have guessed, Henri Boillot picked very early in 2009, starting with chardonnay on September 4 and then attacking his pinots a week later. At the time of my early June visit, the malos were finished in his negociant cellar across the Route Nationale but not at his house, where he makes his domain wines. Boillot describes 2009 as a year with a lot of different styles, depending to a great degree on picking dates. "Those who harvested early had the chance to make wines with strong acid backbone," he told me. "For me the 2009s are like the 2006s but less ripe and less exotic." Boillot generally brought in his fruit with 12.5% to 12.8% potential alcohol and chaptalized lightly to prolong the fermentations. Incidentally, Boillot already rates the 2009 reds ahead of the '05s, which is high praise indeed. As to the whites, he believes his 2009s have good structure and acid spine. "They are charming wines but they also have plenty of aging potential," he explained. Many of the wines finished quite dry, in a classic sense.
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