2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (M)
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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As I worked my way to the top of Boillot's hierarchy of white wines, this thought crossed my mind: how can chardonnay get better than this? Boillot's young 2002s, though obviously not yet in bottle at the time of my late spring tasting, are one of the greatest sets of young white Burgundies I've tasted to date. They are hugely rich but classically dry, with residual sugars, according to Boillot, in the modest 1.1 to 1.3 grams-per-liter range. They are sweetly oaky, but have more than enough material to support their wood element (and Boillot typically uses 350-liter Francois Freres barrels, which provide for somewhat less contact between the wood and the surface of the wine than the standard 228-liter Burgundy casks). The confident Boillot, for his part, describes his 2002s as "fat wines that possess exceptional acidity." By the way, Boillot had me taste his wines in the Riedel sangiovese glass, which he prefers for young chardonnay. But their high quality would have been obvious served up in a jelly jar. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Boillot maintains that 1999 is ultimately the least impressive of the last three years for white wine due to an element of dilution - "the effect of 10 hectoliters per hectare more crop across the board." At the time of my visit, he preferred his finished 2000s, but he also described his young 2001s as particularly fresh wines. The man is on a roll: this is one cellar where the negociant wines (Maison Henri Boillot) do not take a back seat to the estate cuvees (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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