2005 Puligny-Montrachet Combettes
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Jacques Carillon compared the family's young 2006s to the '99s in their high levels of alcohol. Grape sugars in '06 were mostly between 13.5% and 14.2%, he told me. "The wines possess their normal minerality, but they will need bottle aging to really show their mineral side." Yes, 5% or 10% of the grapes were affected by rot in 2006, Carillon admitted, but it was more noble than gray. The 2005s here have turned out very well: they appear to have gained considerably in refinement during their last months in barrel.
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Jacques Carillon's description of the difference between the 2005 and 2004 white wines of Burgundy closely mirrors my own impressions."Two thousand five was a dry year that was not too hot and that featured a nice September and small grapes," he said."The wines are round, rich and fat, very different in style from the 2004s, which are more minerally, more Burgundian, more austere in their youth."He summarized:"The 2005s are more chardonnay than they are Puligny-Montrachet."
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