2011 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
France
Clos Saint Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2022 - 2045
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2021 - 2036
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I tasted all of Virgile Lignier's 2011s from tank, just before their imminent bottling, which was scheduled to start in December 2012. The first fruit was brought in on September 7. Lignier reported healthy fruit and stems. Readers will note a healthy amount of whole clusters in these wines. Lignier opted for gentle extractions, with more pumpovers than punchdowns. New oak was in the 30-50% range for most of the wines.
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Virgile Lignier told me he picked late in 2011, waiting until September 7 for greater phenolic maturity. In fact, he added, he's steadily moving in the direction of later harvesting. "I picked the same days as Ponsot in 2012," he said. Potential alcohol levels in 2011 ranged from 11.9% to as high as 13.2% for his Charmes-Chambertin and no wine was chaptalized more than half a degree. Lignier made extensive use of whole-cluster vinification in 2011 and told me that he has been reducing his percentage of new oak. in recent years. He also relied more heavily on remontage than pigeage, deriving his extraction instead from a longer cuvaison. In fact, he told me he cut the number of punchdowns in half, doing just four or five in total for each cuvee. I found a few of these wines to be a bit chocolatey and saline, if not lacking in verve, perhaps due to the late harvest dates. The wines had been racked into cuves at the beginning of October. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)
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