2011 Montrachet Grand Cru

The chardonnay in 2011 ripened more by concentration than by photosynthesis owing to hot weather in August, said winemaker Eric Remy. "We were able to get good ripeness at modest sugar levels, generally between 11.7% and 12.7%," he said, adding that "the early picked stuff was chaptalized a bit." Domaine Leflaive harvested during the last seven days of August, finishing with the grand crus on the 30th and 31st. Yields were higher than usual, averaging 47 hectoliters per hectare, but the Batard and Chevalier were more like 35 to 37 owing to hail in July. The estate eliminated some dried grapes at harvest time, and acidity levels after the malolactic fermentations were between 4.7 and 5.2 grams per liter--one of the highest figures given to me during my tour of the Cote de Beaune this spring. A couple of the 2010s were still in tank at the end of May; I have included notes on these wines as they had not finished their malos when I originally tasted them in 2011.