2007 Chablis Les Vaudevey 1er Cru

Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye describes the 2008s as "tender, supple, open wines, more accessible than the 2007s." He doesn't believe that they're as deep or concentrated as the '06s, though. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12% to 12.2% range, but very little chaptalization was done. De la Bourdonnaye told me he did a lot of lees stirring duntil early May "to obtain a full concentration of the vintage's qualities." But he noted that he carried out even more batonnage with the 2007s, as he had to compensate for doing an especially long debourbage. "There was the danger at the beginning of getting a vegetal aspect in the 2007s," he said. "After the first day of debourbage the wines were already clear but were still too dry, so we let them settle for a second day." De la Bourdonnaye describes the 2007s as elegant wines that will open six months later than average. "They were austere at the beginning, but it's a lovely pure vintage to age, a perfect vintage to forget in your cellar. Starting with clean juice was critical. In 2007, you couldn't hide any mistakes." Laroche now bottles nearly all of its wines with screwcaps, and de la Bourdonnaye noted that this approach should be perfect for preserving the freshness and precision of the 2007s. (Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY) Also recommended: 2008 Petit Chablis (86).