2011 Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru

Winemaker Gregory Viennois finds the 2012s to be "more classic than the 2011s, a product of a cold maturity--a bit like the 2002s in that sense.But the wines are not vegetal or austere."It was a late harvest without dilution, thanks to a lot of coulure and millerandage, he added.The estate also did a lot of green harvesting.As in 2011, Domaine Laroche harvested quite late, in this case from September 24 through October 8, with potential alcohols of 12.4% and up and sound acidity levels.In 2011, Laroche harvested a big crop from September 10 through 23."We needed to wait in order for the grape skins to ripen properly and to gain more structure," explained Viennois, who added that acidity levels were in the healthy 3.9 to 4.3 grams-per-liter range in 2011.He compared the 2011s to the estate's 2005s. Incidentally, Viennois told me that Laroche's new press is allowing him to get more dry extract "but without more fat" in the wines.The 2012 samples I tasted were all estate cuvees.