2019 Bourgogne Rouge

Long-term readers know that I am a long-term fan of this Volnay producer. It was the first time I was not greeted by the ursine figure of Jean-Pierre Charlot, instead by his nephew Etienne Chaix. Charlot is taking a back seat role but came in to see me halfway through the tasting. As usual, I was presented with detailed information on the exact number of barrels from their diaspora of tiny holdings across 8 hectares of vineyard vis-à-vis previous vintages. In 2019 the picking began on 13 September compared to 30 August in 2018, though in 2020 that record was broken since they began in on 22 August. An indicator of the depleted yields is that production in 2019 was 119 barrels compared to 182 in 2018 and 191 in 2017. The style of winemaking has not altered. This is the bastion of what you might call “traditional” Burgundy that is all the rage nowadays. These are terroir-driven, site-specific wines that arguably entertain a bit of rusticity, can seem a little coarse in their youth, but age with unerring panache. The Volnay Caillerets is amongst the best you will find in 2019, not powerful but beguilingly intense, a wine that evokes its place of origin. Prices remain relatively reasonable and both 2018s in bottle and the forthcoming 2019s are recommended.