2009 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru
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Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Véronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011.
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"Two thousand nine was easy in the vineyards and easy to harvest, without any time pressures," reported Frederic Drouhin, who told me that his family started picking pinot on September 8 but brought in most of its Cote de Nuits crus between September 12 and 15. "We did a bit of sorting to eliminate overripe grapes, as we thought it was critical to avoid overripeness in '09." Drouhin describes the young wines as "seductive, charming, commercial, ripe. The vintage character currently dominates the terroir; it's not a classic vintage like 2008. The '09s will probably be best for mid-term aging, since the fruit is so ripe and the acidity low." The Drouhins were just starting to bottle the wines at the time of my visit (most of these had been racked) and planned to finish by the end of January.