2012 Meursault Village
France
Meursault
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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"The 2012s will be good but they risk being opulent," said Fichet. "The wines have balance and depth, and no rot due to the small clusters and the spaces between the grapes. But the tiny crops are never the best: without enough juice in the grapes, the wines can be too powerful, or even heavy." Fichet has done almost no settling of the must during the past three vintages and adapts his batonnage to the vintage. In 2012 he did what he described as very little batonnage (some wines were stirred just two or three times, and others up to ten). I have limited my notes on Fichet's 2012s to the wines that had finished their malos at the time of my visit. In 2011, Fichet started picking on August 28. "The '11s could have been a bit like the 2003s," he told me, "but they benefited from a certain lack of ripeness at the end. The wines are sympa and balanced; they can be drunk young or aged."
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