1999 Meursault Le Tesson

Fichet exploits barely nine hectares of vines, in most cases via rental agreements, and is starting a small negociant business in order to supply more wine to his regular clients. These are consistently well-made white Burgundies with richness, clarity and finesse. Fichet describes the '99s as good to drink from the start, but noted that it was essential to control yields during this copious growing season. And the wines, he says, are clean: "You can stick your pipette into any barrel; there was no rot, no oxidation. The wines are very elegantly styled." Fichet was still stirring the lees at the end of June; he will not bottle until next March, and will do so without filtration. (Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; Glazer Wholesale Distributors, Dallas, TX; The Wine House Limited, San Francisco, CA)