2019 Meursault Village

This was my first visit to Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux in Meursault. They farm 6 hectares in Meursault, Volnay and Pommard, half and half white and red. The vines are farmed lutte raisonée and undergo a traditional vinification with fermentation in barrel and élevage in wood for around 12 months, including 30% new oak. The 2019s will be bottled just before Christmas and so I tasted through the Domaine’s 2018s that were picked from 1 September. Readers should note Gaunoux does not sell the wines en primeur, so these represent current vintages in the market. To be frank, I found the range a little inconsistent with one or two of the Volnays lacking cohesion and sufficient freshness. These shortcomings where put into sharp relief by the much more promising showing of their Volnay Les Brouillards and a very commendable Pommard Village. Perhaps it is simply a case of a growing season that did not suit Gaunoux’s style since I have encountered decent bottles in the past.