2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru

Jean-Marc Pillot’s 2015 crus were among the most minerally examples of their vintage that I tasted this spring—this in addition to their silky, rich textures. They’re about much more than simply varietal fruit. Pillot purchased a second press that enabled him to pick most of his Chardonnay in three days (September 3 through 5), with healthy acidity. Potential alcohol levels ranged from 12.8% to 13.2%, the alcoholic fermentations went quickly (all of the wines finished with under one gram of residual sugar), and the malos were finished by the end of January. The post-malo acidity levels range from 4.1 to 4.3 grams per liter, according to Pillot.

Pillot describes 2015 as a heatwave vintage but noted that the wines are opulent and tasty, with better acidity than the 2009s. With just a couple of exceptions, his maximum yield in 2015 for Chardonnay was a moderate 40 hectoliters per hectare. His top 2015s display the inner-mouth lift to support mid-term aging. For his part Pillot suggests starting to drink them in five years—before the 2014s.

Incidentally, Pillot told me that his Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers, Les Vergers Clos Saint Marc, Les Chenevottes, Les Macharelles and Les Champs-Gain were nearly entirely frosted in 2016 but that his Puligny vineyards suffered only minimal damage.