1999 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru
France
Meursault
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Jean-Francois Coche describes the young 2000s as firm wines with very good acidity; there was a bit of botrytis in his aligote, which, incidentally, offers great fat and power for this variety, as well as piquant balancing acidity, but virtually none in the estate chardonnay. Coche's '99s have turned out splendidly; he describes '99 as "a very complete vintage featuring great richness and balance, better than '96 or '95." The Corton-Charlemagne is a tour de force
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A number of Coche '98s appear to have lost some of their clarity and to have developed a hard edge during the second half of their levage with the result that the bottled wines do not show the compelling aromatics and layered textures that fans of this superb domain crave. No doubt this was due in part to Coche's use of the lees, which were not entirely healthy in '98, especially in vineyards hard-hit by frost and oidium. For his own part, Coche is clearly not enamored of these wines; he made a point of showing me the '98s quickly before turning to his '99s, which promise to make classic Coche bottles. Even the bourgogne blanc should be a standout in '99.
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