2021 Marsannay Le Chapitre
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2024 - 2028
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The final visit during my six-week marathon was to see Laurent Fournier. I have praised his wines for quite a few years now, and he’s always a fun person to taste with, chatty and animated. “We were not impacted by the storm at the end of June,” he tells me at his winery in Marsannay. “The vintage respected the terroirs. I started picking on 31 August. I decided to pick the Aligoté one week earlier than planned, as it was ripening so quickly. There was only a little problem finishing the end of the fermentation, but otherwise, it was straightforward.” These excellent wines lean more towards the black side of the fruit spectrum, and Fournier is a skilled winemaker who exploits the full potential of his modest holdings. They represent some of the best values in this report, and I cannot recommend them enough.
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“I lost a lot to the frost,” winemaker Laurent Fournier tells me at his winery, “around 50% in Gevrey-Chambertin, but less in Marsannay. There was a large difference depending on the pruning, which I finished on 31 March for plots usually pruned later. Those parcels were a normal crop. All the wines spend one year in barrel, not 18 months as before. I did the same in 2017. I started the harvest on 22 September. I have worked with a laboratory to create our own pieds de cuve [pre-selecting yeasts]. I will bottle…when I find bottles! No, seriously, I expect to bottle in March, though my supplier in Switzerland stopped production to conserve gas. I don’t think it is a vintage for long-term aging. There is good balance and freshness, the wines are open, so why wait and risk losing freshness.” The most underrated winemaker in the Côte de Nuits? I’d put Fournier up there – what he does with modest holdings often makes me wonder what he'd be capable of with a raft of Grand Crus. Prices remain cheaper than many, and I cannot recommend these wines highly enough.