2001 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Mugnier began picking his 2002 crop on September 23, at what he described as much higher sugar levels than the previous year. He carried out a particularly severe green harvest in 2002, yet he still produced 37 to 40 hectoliters per hectare-quite moderate by overall Burgundy standards but higher than the average here.Mugnier told me that the 2002s began with a high percentage of malic acidity, and finished with higher pHs than the 2001s after their secondary fermentations. The 2002s lost a lot of color and flesh during the malos, and they've been recovering slowly since then,' he told me, adding that the vintage has just the right amount of acidity; high-quality, round tannins; and very good depth. Two thousand two is the closest to an ideal vintage in recent years in terms of typicity and the amount of pleasure it will bring to tasters,'he summarized. The wines will be nice to drink early and great to drink when they're old.They have all the best qualities of the 2000s and 2001s, plus an extra element of depth.'(A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)

People who love Burgundy will enjoy the 2001s," said Mugnier. They have more vibrancy and depth than the 2000s. Burgundy loses energy and focus when the climate is too hot, and 2001 was certainly a moderate year." Mugnier noted that he doesn't look for heat and drought in August, preferring slow, steady ripening instead. And he likes cool weather toward the end of the harvest, as he had in 2001. Not surprisingly, he is not a leaf-puller, as he is concerned that that would result in too much sun on the grapes. Wines made from fruit like this may be more dark and impressive and powerful but they lose their finesse and delicacy and become harder to drink." Mugnier actually had a crop level 10% lower in 2001 than in the previous year. But he noted that it's a constant challenge to control yields, "now that our soils and our vines are healthier, and the climate seems to be warmer." The 2000s have turned out well, although Mugnier notes that they are developing relatively quickly. They lack an interior dimension and are unlikely to get too much more interesting over time," he said. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)