2023 Vouvray Sec Le Mont

Founded almost a century ago, Domaine Huet is arguably Vouvray's most famous name. An early adopter of biodynamics, Huet was certified in 1993 when even organic producers were considered hippies. Production of wine styles (from dry to sweet) varies depending on the seasons, which are becoming more erratic every year. For example, in 2018, around 85% of production was sweet, making the rare sweet cuvée Constance possible. The original vineyard, Le Haut Lieu, is a clay-based site first purchased in 1928 by founder Gaston Huet. It now covers 15 hectares and remains the most fruit-forward of the estate’s sites. The addition of Clos du Bourg came in 1953. It’s a real clos, surrounded by walls and is a little warmer than the other sites, making it the first of the Huet vineyards to be picked. Conversely, the Le Mont vineyard, which was acquired in 1957, has a greenish-yellow clay soil with flint scattered throughout, making it a cooler site. It is picked the latest and takes time to come around in the bottle.

In 2023, sorting was key to the success of the wines. Every bunch was examined multiple times due to the arrival of the Suzukii fruit fly, which affected many parcels in Vouvray, turning juice into vinegar. At least 25% of the crop was rejected, and this rigorous approach seems to have paid off. Tasting the wines just weeks after they were bottled, I was very encouraged. However, there are just seven cuvées from Huet in 2023 with no demi-sec, moelleux or fully sweet wine from the Haut-Lieu vineyard.