1998 Gevrey-Chambertin (M)

Romain Lignier told me he has essentially adhered to his father's winemaking techniques yet has made a number of significant changes. He has lengthened the pre-fermentation cold maceration and done more pigeage. He pays more attention to the sources and quality of his barrels, and has also increased the percentage of new barrels to as much as two-thirds for the crus in years like '96 and '99. And, he has taken a variety of steps to hold down yields, including using cordon royat pruning for his more prolific younger vines. "Nineteen ninety-six is looking like a great year," says Romain; "nineteen ninety-eight is a bit less concentrated, with lower acidity." It was essential to eliminate the botrytis-affected grapes in the vines, and not allow them to come in contact with the healthy fruit; less-ripe fruit was also eliminated. Yields in his village parcels were higher in '98 than in '97, but generally lower for the crus.