2003 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chênes Carteaux 1er Cru

"Vintage 2004 is pinot noir without excess, the classic pinot of Burgundy," said Christian Gouges about the new vintage. Gouges told me that the estate used its sorting table in the winery in 2004, as it was much harder to do a good job of selection in the vines. Sugar levels were typically 12. 7% or 12. 8%, and some of the premier crus were not chaptalized at all, he added. Gouges included a bit of the press wine in 2004 as it was quite supple. "We need the tannins in the press wine for aging potential," he explained. "Otherwise we would just have easy vins de plaisir, not true Burgundy. Wines that are only about fruit don't interest me. "(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

I have the impression that Laurent's wines have been much more consistent in quality since the 2000 vintage, and his 2003s showed extremely well in November.Laurent was very much in the camp of the late harvesters, as thoroughly ripe phenolic material is crucial to his elevage.Almost all of his wines from the Cote de Nuits came from fruit harvested in September; but even most of his Cote de Beaunes were picked after the refreshing precipitation of August 28.Laurent told me that half of the malos were finished by the time he took possession of the barrels of wine in January and February.In general, those wines that were vinified with whole clusters proceeded more slowly.For those willing to purchase wine from Laurent's early en primeur offering, there are always some serious bargains here:with 2003, Laurent will offer village wines from Gevrey, Chambolle, Volnay and Pommard that consist mainly of declassified premier crus, including old vines from lesser crus-often at opening prices that are barely half as high as his premier crus.As usual, I sampled a boatload of wine here, but not everything. Laurent told me that most of his village wines, plus his premier crus from the Cote de Beaune, were aging in 50% new and 50% one-year-old barrels, while his grand crus were in all new oak.For what it's worth, he noted that Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux and Musigny were his best vineyards in 2003. I should point out that virtually all of Laurent's 2003s will say "Vieilles Vignes" on the label.

"A millesime d'exception from a climat d'exception," says Christian Gouges about 2003."The wines will be fantastic to follow. And that's all I'm going to say about this vintage."Like the Chevillons, Gouges started harvesting just after the refreshing precipitation that fell on August 28, which he said perked up the grapes by direct contact rather than swelling them by being absorbed through the vines' roots.Gouges did his shortest cuvaison ever, with very little pigeage, and acidified his top three wines in cuve.The premier crus are all between 13.8% and 14.2% alcohol.On my November visit, Gouges described 2002 as "the most balanced vintage I've ever made."(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)