2006 Meursault Les Boucheres

Jean-Marc Roulot compares his young 2006s to the supple 2000s in style, but believes that the grapes were healthier in the earlier vintage. "Two thousand six is not quite as good as either 2005 or 2004," said Roulot. "The grapes were picked before rot spread, and no special sorting was necessary; it was more a matter of having browner grapes than usual." Roulot started harvesting in Meursault Boucheres four days before the ban de vendange, and also brought in his Poruzots early. Like a few of his colleagues on the Cote de Beaune, Roulot still doesn't quite know what to think about 2005. "I don't think I picked the grapes too late, but I just don't understand the wines yet," he told me. Roulot admitted that he finds the 2005s a bit "anonymous" today and wonders whether they will reward aging. Still, he said, acidity levels in 2005 were high across the board. The '05s were bottled between January and March of 2007.