1999 Le Montrachet
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Guy Amiot told me he made slightly more concentrated white wines in 2000 than in '99. The wines have more tartaric and less malic acidity than the 2000s, he added, and thus a more stable structure. No chaptalization was needed for the 2000 crus, and the wines finished with lower levels of residual sugar than the '99s (typically between 0.8 and 1.2 grams per liter). But their dryness, says Amiot, is more than supported by the gras of the year. In 2000, the yields in the estate old vines were reasonable (Amiot did not need the P.L.C.), but his younger vines produced considerably more. The old vines, Amiot went on, also gave better acidity and thus more structure in 2000, as well as in 1999.
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In the huge 1999 harvest, Amiot benefitted from having a high percentage of old vines, which generally avoid the excessive yields of younger plants. Like a number of his colleagues, Amiot told me that his '99 whites finished quite dry, in the 0.8 to 1.2 grams per liter range, but thanks to their ripe fruity acidity they show a distinctly succulent quality. The '99s had been racked, assembled and lightly sulfured two weeks prior to my visit.
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