2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru
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2026 - 2046
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Lilian Duplessis was out on his tractor spraying his vines when I visited his winery on the banks of the Sireine, though he dropped in towards the end of my tasting. “Some plots were riper than others in 2022,” he explained. “We started the picking on 31 August. Since the 2021 vintage, everything has been picked by hand, whereas before, 50% was machine-harvested. It means that you have to find more pickers.” The set of 2022s showed very well and aligned to my banded scores from barrel, especially the Mont de Milieu and Fourchaume. Due to their extended élevages, some of their 2022s are still in barrel, though I cannot wait to see their Montmains in bottle.
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2026 - 2046
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“The 2022 vintage was easy,” Duplessis said in his tasting room, clearly still a few months from completion. “There are some similarities to 2020 in terms of viticulture and yield. Both are sunny vintages, but I feel there is better balance than 2018 and 2019. We started picking on August 31, everything by hand by our 30 pickers. This year, I bought three ten and 12-hectoliter amphorae that I will use for my larger cuvées in tandem with the barrels.” A bit like Vincent Dauvissat, Duplessis’s wines often take a few years to come around – they have a propensity not to show well in blind tastings. Yet they blossom with adequate aeration as they require time to settle.