1998 Côte-Rôtie La Brocarde
France
Côte Rôtie
Northern Rhône
Red
Syrah/Shiraz
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Villard describes '99 as a great year for red wine and very good for white, but not in a classic style. The wines feature high sugars with plenty of acidity-especially the whites, some of which fermented longer than usual-and will require time to round out in bottle, according to Villard. I found a lemony quality to Villard Condrieus that give the wines terrific cut, but I would hardly describe them as typical. The acids are high but correct, notes Villard. "I mean, it's not exactly Muscadet."
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The animated, loquacious Villard, who speaks in short bursts of enthusiasm, describes the '97 vintage as more powerful for red wines than '98, especially in Saint-Joseph. And yet the wines in this cellar are usually more open after a year in barrel than the '98s are today, says Villard, adding that these wines are high in dry extract and need to become more suave. Villard now works six hectares of vines, 70% of which he owns. Few Northern Rhone growers are getting more out of their raw materials than Villard.