2003 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
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Francois Faiveley began harvesting on August 20 on the Cote de Beaune, the house's earliest harvest in more than a century, because, he explained, the acidity in the grapes was falling rapidly.Due in part to a high percentage of tiny dried berries on the south side of the vines, the crop level was down more than 50% from the norm.Following a careful elimination of burned grapes that might otherwise have given the wines a pruney taste, Faiveley did less cold maceration than usual for fear of getting overly tannic wines, then macerated for three weeks rather than the typical month.It's tempting to say that some of these wines were picked short of optimal phenolic ripeness, but I sense that these wines have all the elements for long aging, even if some of them show some distinctly tough tannins today.Faiveley admitted that the 2003s will be wines for collectors, not restaurants, and that most of them will need 10 to 15 years in bottle.
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