1997 Vosne-Romanée Village
France
Vosne Romanée
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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I stopped by here on a dreary, drizzly morning in early November, before the really nasty cold and snow settled in for the rest of my stay in Burgundy. Rouget's young '98s were a bit under the weather as well, and it will be necessary to follow up on these wines after the bottling. In addition to showing some of the severity of the vintage, a few of them lacked the verve and delineation one might expect from this first-rate producer in a year with reasonably low pHs. For his own part, Rouget prefers the '97s today "for their roundness and suppleness. The '98s are not exactly green," he told me, "but they seem rather dry today." The '98s were mostly racked in July and will be bottled in early spring.
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Rouget describes '97 as a compromise between the finesse and tannins of '89 and the power and fruit of '92, but with yields in the very low 28 hectoliters per hectare range. "The '97s are less rich and less tannic than the '85s," he adds. Rouget did a cold maceration following the '97 harvest ("especially in '97," he noted), then kept his wines on their lees until last July. Interestingly, Rouget told me his '96s are "less rich in acidity" than the '97s because of the former year higher yields, but the '96s are denser and more powerful. He prefers the balance of '96 to '95.
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