2010 Morey-Saint-Denis Village
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Jeremy Seysses told me that his family eliminated about 25% of the fruit in 2010, "for rot, not for underripeness," and that that percentage was comparable to 2008. He finds that the young 2010s shows similar "thickness and energy" to the 2008s. Potential alcohols were generally a shade over 12%, and following moderate chaptalization the village wines are now around 12.5%, the premier crus 12.8% to 13%, and the grand crus 13% to 13.5%. Due to the high percentage of millerandage, the estate vinified with a substantial percentage of whole clusters in 2010: 90% or more for numerous cuvees. Most of the 2010s were racked for the first time after the 2011 harvest, and some of the wines were quite reduced in November. Interestingly, pHs here are often a tad higher in 2010 than they were in 2009--3.55 to 3.65 vs. 3.5 to 3.6, according to Seysses. "Accusations of overripeness in 2009 are highly simplistic," he pointed out. "The wines are not porty like the 1990s. They have the acid structure to age, and to go the distance."
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