1998 Chambolle-Musigny Village

The past three vintages have brought the highest grape sugars to date at this domain, with 1998 just a hair behind 1997 and 1999, according to vineyard manager Christophe Morin. "Making good wines in 1998 required good viticulture and good vinification," noted Morin. "We needed to remove the burnt grapes with a separate pass through the vines around September 10." "Then we destemmed certain less-ripe parcels to avoid getting a green taste in the wines." Because the grapes came in cool, the domain was able to do its normal four or five days of cold maceration prior to the onset of the fermentations. The Dujac '98s are more powerful and voluminous wines than the '97s, noted Morin, adding that they are a bit rounder and more concentrated than the estate's '96s. My tasting notes on the Dujac '97s appeared in Issue 83.