1997 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
Rhone Blend
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The 1998 harvest was a tricky one, according to Daniel Brunier. Ambient temperatures were hot, he noted, and it was essential to control fermentation temperatures carefully. Vieux Telegraphe did a lot of pigeage, especially for syrah and mourvedre. As in all ripe years here, grenache from old vines was not destemmed because the stems were ripe. Brunier is quite high on the '98s, currently rating them even above 1990: "They're cleaner, better balanced wines," he says. "The acidity wasn't degraded by the sun or diluted by rain."
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Daniel Brunier describes the '97 Vieux Telegraphe red as round, easy and accessible, more generous than the '96; the fruit was about 50% destemmed this year, in contrast to a more typical 30%. He noted that the '97 will be bottled a couple months earlier than usual because the vintage does not have the structure to support longer time in wood. The '96 offers good Chateauneuf du Pape character and early accessibility.
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