2013 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Lavières

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair's 2013s are transparent, crystalline wines that express the signatures of the year to the fullest. Like all of his colleagues, Liger-Belair grappled with challenging conditions all year long. Yields are down 40%, but in the end, that was likely a saving grace, as the wines possess striking purity of fruit and lovely depth, both obtained with slightly lower levels of maturity than is the norm. The 2013s were vinified with around 15% whole clusters, mostly on sites with a prevalence of clay, which is the norm here. Production is tiny and the wines are very hard to find, but I rarely miss a chance to drink them when I can, as these are among my personal favorites in Burgundy.