2007 La Romanée Grand Cru
France
La Romanée
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2023 - 2048
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2019 - 2037
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The phrase ‘once-in-a-lifetime,’ so often overused, has never been more apt. This tasting, held to celebrate Liger-Belair’s 200th anniversary, was the most comprehensive retrospective of La Romanée ever staged. When all was said and done, a group of thirteen tasters surveyed an eye-popping 74 different bottlings of the family’s crown jewel La Romanée going back to the 1865.
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Although the malolactic fermentations of the 2008s were later than usual here, they still ended by mid-June, said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. "Our cellars are not too cold because our house [the stately old Chateau de Vosne-Romanee] is directly above them," he explained. Liger-Belair carried out a pre-harvest to remove rotten and rose grapes, then picked fruit with grape sugars between 12% and 13.2% and had 30% less crop than normal. Liger-Belair compares his 2007s to a cross between 2001 and 2000 and says the 2008s have more precision and acidity. I found the first couple of samples a bit tart but at the cru level there are some stunning 2008s in the making. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA and Veritas, Beverly Hills, CA)
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"Another winegrower's vintage," said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair of the growing season of 2007. He harvested during the first four days of September and quantities were down 30% from usual, with grape sugars healthy but slightly lower than those of the previous year. "Ultimately we had good maturity and good acidity," Liger-Belair told me. The grapes were smaller than usual but the skins were not thick, and the fermentations were a bit warmer and shorter than normal. The wines were untastable during the first month but the malos were over by Christmas, he went on, adding that he kept the wines on their lees to nourish them. All of the village wines and a few of the premier crus had been racked ten days prior to my visit, and the samples I tasted of these cuvees had been taken from barrel before the racking. This estate's wines are nearly always sexy in barrel, as Liger-Belair does not use sulfur during the elevage, and volatile acidity levels are typically between 0.6 and 0.7, which is high enough to project their aromas. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
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