2021 Musigny Grand Cru

Caroline Drouhin greets me at the estate’s winery in the heart of Gevrey Village, replete with a newly-built tasting room and offices. “We had some hail on 9 June in the north of Gevrey [in Lavaut Saint-Jacques], and En Champs suffered some damage,” she tells me. “But the real damage came from the rain during the storm. The torrent of water made the wall collapse.” The team picked from 20 September, though the secateurs were sheathed almost immediately as the heavens opened. They restarted the following day, and the must underwent a cool maceration. “We were a little worried at first, but I think the wines came out good. Now the job is to transfer this energy into bottle.”

As I have reported in previous articles, the style of Drouhin-Laroze’s wines is entirely different from those of Drouhin’s father, Philippe, which tended to be a little over-oaked. The change in style is perhaps not quite as 180° as Domaine Dugat’s, but it’s not far off. Given the growing season, this is a commendable portfolio, some of the grander cuvées maybe just missing some substance, though fresh and terroir-driven. They really excel with the Clos de Vougeot and a splendid Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, though keep your eyes peeled for a very fine Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur and an over-performing Craipillot.