2014 Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Monthélie
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Dominique Lafon was in the middle of bottling his 2014 whites when I stopped by to taste on the last day of May. He had racked the wines into tanks in January, a bit earlier than previously, and several of them were still awaiting bottling. These are very concentrated, pure wines from vines picked early, and they have the sappiness and grip to reward aging.
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Dominique Lafon had not yet bottled his 2013s at the end of May as the malolactic fermentations were unusually long, but most of the wines had been resting in tank since January or February. Lafon believes the village wines are good and that "some premier crus are tremendous. They have sound acidity and show good tightness today. And they're more refined than the village wines." As of 2013, Lafon has gone entirely to DIAM corks.
Lafon was an early harvester in 2014, starting on September 10. Potential alcohol levels ranged between 12.5% and 13% but crop levels were off dramatically in most of his Meursault parcels. With low yields, though, came an extra measure of concentration.