2005 Marsannay Les Longeroies

The late Denis Mortet's son Arnaud vinified the 2005s with his father, and then was assisted with the 2006s by Claire Forestier, who was previously at Domaine Bertagna and who subsequently left Domaine Mortet in December. Arnaud, who looks even younger than his 25 years, described 2005 as an early-harvested vintage with "excellent ripeness and enormous material." He pointed out that his father had already changed his style of vinification somewhat as of 2004, working "more in finesse"-that is, doing less pigeage and seeking to make less tannic wines that are more expressive of their terroir. Although he does not plan to make any radical changes, beginning with 2006 Arnaud is experimenting with a percentage of one-year-old barrels for some of the "little wines." But the 2005s I tasted in November were all aging in 100% new barriques. None of the wines had been racked, and some barrels had not yet finished their malos. (Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also recommended: Marsannay Les Longeroies (85), Fixin (85).