2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru

This estate lost 45% of its crop to frost in 2016, with production in some of their top crus off even more sharply (e.g., 50% in Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 80% in Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux-Bruns and 70% in Chambertin). Arnaud Mortet told me he was surprised by the healthy levels of potential alcohol (generally between 12.5% and 13% for the estate holdings), considering that he did not start harvesting until September 24. (And the fruit from a number of additional grand crus that Mortet now gets through métayage arrangements with two investors was typically around 13%.) “The frosted portion of our vines produced tiny crop levels, and the fruit ripened well,” he explained, adding that for the vines that were spared, he carried out a green harvest to limit yields. In the end, he said, the grapes were healthy and there was very little fruit to eliminate on the sorting table. The pHs in 2016 are on the high side at 3.6 to 3.7, Mortet noted, adding that the ‘15s may be a touch lower but in the same ballpark.

Mortet now carries out just five to seven total punchdowns per cuvée, relying on one or two remontages per day during the fermentation to oxygenate the yeasts. He’s able to accomplish this using an elevator, so he does not have to pump the wine. Mortet believes that the 2016s will give pleasure to virtually everyone. “They will be flatteur to enjoy early but will age well,” he offered. “If they don’t last as long as the ‘15s, they will be drinkable earlier.” He believes 2015 is a great vintage (and the wines I sampled in November were certainly splendid) but notes that they are already starting to shut down in bottle.