2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles

Bachelet always destems but does not crush his fruit. Owing to substantial millerandage in his old vines, he ends up fermenting with a high percentage of whole berries, which is partly responsible for the creamy richness of his wines. Bachelet told me that he harvested in 2011 with potential alcohol between 11.6% and 12%, explaining that it was impossible to wait for fuller ripeness and higher sugars due to the risk of spreading rot. But the grapes were in good condition, he noted, and he did more extraction than in the average year, although the pre-fermentation cold soak was shorter than usual due to the warm ambient conditions at the time of harvest (Bachelet began on August 31). In its acidity, noted Bachelet, 2011 reminds him of such past vintages as 2006 and 2001. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd, www.martinscottwines.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)