2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Amiral G

The beautifully situated Domaine de Vaudieu is owned by the Brechet family, whose forebears, the Meffres, have been making wine in the southern Rhône, mostly as négociants, since 1936. The estate comprises a full 70 contiguous hectares on mostly sandy soils on the northern edge of the village, rising up to the Pignan plateau. Driving north toward Courthézon it is impossible to miss the enormous château. Grenache is the dominant variety planted here, of which many are quite old vines. The wines are made in a luscious, highly expressive style; they are focused and seldom come off as overtly exotic. The estate does not cut corners when it comes to quality. Over the last decade Laurent Brechet’s wines have pulled Vaudieu into the upper echelon of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, for red wines as well as whites. The 2018s are definitely rich, but within reason. Even now, the wines are pretty delicious, though I think it would be a mistake to underestimate their ability to age gracefully.