2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru

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Etienne de Montille was attending the funeral of Henri Roch when I visited the domaine. Winemaker Brian Sieve took me through the comprehensive range that includes Domaine de Montille and Château de Puligny-Montrachet, and also their négociant arm, Maison de Montille. I will not say too much here, since Sieve kindly offered his thoughts in the form of a video that viewers can see in the Multimedia section. Suffice to say that he commenced the harvest on August 28 or 29 for the whites, a little rain falling on August 30 meaning some parcels were picked before those showers, and the reds were picked September 2–10. Among the reds, there are many delights, not least a divine Nuits Saint-George Aux Thorey, one to compare with Cathiard’s, perhaps, and I find commendable consistency across Volnay and Pommard, the heart of the range.

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Etienne de Montille started harvesting at his home estate on August 28, a day after he began at Château de Puligny-Montrachet. According to Domaine de Montille chef de cave Brian Sieve, there was a little rain on August 29 and 30 and the pickers didn’t work on those afternoon. They began harvesting Pinot Noir on September 1, then stopped again due to rain on the following day. “Most of the top wines lost a bit of alcohol but not acidity, and were easier to ferment as a result,” said Sieve. “Actually, we were lucky that there was a lot of fruit since we had a warm, dry summer. We would have made heavier wines if the yields had been lower.”

As the early season was drier than that of 2018 and 2016, with no major frost event, the team did half as many vineyard treatments as in ’16, which Sieve believes may partly explain the healthy levels of tartaric acidity in ’17. The post-malo wines have at least four grams per liter of acidity with pHs between 3.15 and 3.25. Still, Sieve does not believe that the ’17 white “have what the ‘14s have—that crunchy fruit, with persistence across the board.”

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