2020 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru

Head winemaker Brian Sieve was on hand to show me through de Montille’s wide range of whites and reds. “There are vintages where the vigneron chooses the date to pick, but in 2020 (and 2021) it was determined by Nature,” he opined. “So, that means we can’t dictate the style. Then there are logistical factors that come into play, like your pickers’ availability to pick at the right time. You tend to lose students the later it is, but you get older people still coming, and then it becomes difficult from later September. In 2020 we had to be ready to pick as soon as we came back from vacation because I wanted to stay in the red fruit profile. We were at the limits, really, in terms of ripeness and acidity. The white was less complicated than the red. What saved us was the quantity of fruit [in terms of lowering concentration]. Everything was over 35hl/ha. I am looking forward to seeing where these wines are after the second winter in barrel because there will be some good reductive characteristics. The alcohol levels are around 12.5° to 13.0°. Most whites are under Diam.” There is a lot to admire in de Montille’s 2020s in both colors. By managing to stay in that red fruit profile, Sieve retained that sense of Pinoté that eluded others, avoiding any confit-like aromas or flavors. In addition, the use of whole bunch is very assiduous (see tasting notes for exact percentages) and lends the reds freshness when it might have been lacking. Highlights here include the Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas, a brilliant Clos de Vougeot, a great Pommard-like Volnay Les Mitans and, of course, the two cuvées from Les Malconsorts, which I found quite different this year.