2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

"While 2007 could be as hot as 2003 at times, the major difference was that in 2007 a strong mistral-which we like to call Dr. Mistral-arrived in September to cure the vintage," said Sophie Estevenin. "The 2007s have a freshness that was impossible to attain in 2003 because the heat was relentless. We just sat and cooked. You couldn't even sleep at night. " She added that she thinks the tannins of 2003 are harder than those of 2007 and that the wines need more patience than will be required for the '07s. " Catherine Armenier described the estate's 2006s as "very pretty wines, but perhaps without the richness of our 2004s. The tannins are the best part: smooth, harmonious and sweet. The '06s are classic and will be easy to drink at all stages of their lives, and before the 2004s, 2005s and 2007s. "

Sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier continue a wine-making tradition in Chateauneuf dating back to the 14th century and, not surprisingly, have produced among the best sets of wines from the appellation in 2005 and 2006. "Two thousand five is a very special vintage," they told me. "There is remarkable concentration, structure and, most important, balance. The wines will be very long-lived." Sophie is adamant that the key to the finesse of their Vieilles Vignes bottling is the clay-and-chalk soils from which it is sourced. "It is not an opinion but a fact that these vineyards produce the most elegant wines of the appellation," she told me. I wouldn't argue.