1997 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles en Foule

Although Bernard Dugat has purchased several tiny parcels of vines in recent years, demand for his limited production still far exceeds supply. The tiny crop level of '97 (Dugat says he produced just 22 hectoliters per hectare, on average) has not helped the supply/demand equation. Everything militated against quantity in '97: Dugat habit of short pruning and ebourgeonnage the poor flowering, an outbreak of oidium, and the fact that he uses no chemical fertilizers. The malolactic fermentations were protracted, with some not finishing until nearly a full year after the harvest. Still, Dugat began bottling in December and expected to finish by March. These are extremely primary wines that will require medium term aging to express their personalities. In addition to the wines noted below, Dugat has a half barrel of Chambertin (farmed en metayage) with a texture like a solid and sweetness verging on confectionary.