2004 Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues
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Christophe Sabon loves to talk about his wines in the context of food-especially game, which he avidly pursues in his spare time.I should have guessed this by the motley group of hunting dogs that greeted me when I entered the driveway.Despite the sheer size and texture that recent vintages have delivered in the area, Sabon told me he seeks suavity and complexity."And, there's nothing wrong with powerful wines if they have balance and elegance."Vintage 2004, which Sabon described as "the perfect growing season and harvest," yielded a compelling set of Chateauneufs that were among the highlights of my tour of the south.