2020 Bourgogne Aligoté

Clémence Dubrelle, the bubbliest person in Burgundy – which, let’s face it, is a miracle after the trauma of the 2021 vintage – greeted me at the winery, where I spent a customary few moments admiring the panorama over the Côte de Beaune from its lofty position. “We started picking on either August 29 or 30,” she explained. “Just before the harvest, our oenologist said that we had a small but perfect vintage in the making. We never had to acidify, and the maximum alcohol is 13.8°. We did one délestage per vat for the Cuvée Marey. Overall, I find the 2020 more balanced than the 2019.” This was a strong follow-up to the excellent 2019s, the Rully Clos Saint-Jacques being the highlight, though white Rully Clos de Chaigne perhaps deserves some bottle age. Prices are bargains considering the rest of Burgundy, so don’t overlook this grower for something with a trendier label.