2022 Mâcon-Davayé
France
Mâcon Solutré
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2023 - 2027
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I was immensely impressed by the quality of the wines at Domaine de la Chapelle last year, so obviously, I wanted to return and visit proprietor Pascal Rollet together with his son Thomas. “There is just one-third of the crop this year,” Pascal laments. "We began picking on 25 August to preserve the freshness, and we ended with 12.5% alcohol. The acidity is better in 2022 than 2020, with lower levels of residual sugar. Thomas is doing all the vinification now. We chaptalize just half a degree in 2021.” I asked about the differences between their two Premier Crus. "The Aux Bouthières tends to be a little more exotic in style," Thomas Rollet answers, "and it takes time to come together after fermentation, whereas the Clos de la Chapelle is more floral on the nose and structured on the palate."
There is a lot to admire at Domaine de la Chapelle in 2021, not least their Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières and their Clos de la Chapelle monopole, the latter endowed with impressive persistence and density irrespective of the cooler and more challenging growing season. The house style leans a little more towards yellow fruit, matched with spine-tingling acidity. The only caveat is depleted quantities.