2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Le Petit Arlot

I have to say, walking into Domaine de l'Arlot's cellars leaves a lasting impression on this visit, as some rooms are virtually empty, the result of a devastating 2012 growing season that took with it 45% of the production. The year got off to a rough start, with a brutal cold wave from northerly winds in February that was so severe it penetrated the plants. The oldest vines, those with the least vigor, suffered the most, winemaker Jacques Devauges told me. Rain from April to June was 50% higher than normal. Poor flowering resulted in high incidences of coulure (shatter) and millerandage (shot berries). Hail on July 4 was especially damaging to the whites in Nuits Saint Georges. Disease pressure, especially mildew, was significant throughout the summer. Like many estates that farm biodynamically, the number of options for dealing with disease was quite limited. The estate relied on copper and Chamomile treatments, which were effective to some degree. According to Devauges, most vintages allow for some margin of error with regards to the timing of when to treat the vineyards, but 2012 was a year in which even the smallest missteps were punished severely by Mother Nature. Conditions improved markedly in August and September. The 2012 harvest started with the Petit Arlot on September 20 and finished on September 28. The 2012s were vinified with 30% whole clusters across the board, with the exception of the young vine Cuvées, where only about 5% stems made it into the tank. Fermentations were quite gentle, with these wines seeing only three punch downs in total. All told, Devauges appears have made it through the first vintage he has seen from start to finish at Arlot admirably well. There is nothing like trial by fire. All of these wines, with the exception of the Romanée St. Vivant, were racked before the 2013 harvest.