1997 Pommard Les Frémiers 1er Cru

Yves Confuron has radically changed this domain's wines in just a few short years-most importantly, by forcing the vines' roots deeper and by harvesting later. "The most critical requirement for making excellent wine is ripe tannins and ripe aromas," says Confuron, who says he harvested a full week later in '98 than most of his neighbors. "Yes, there was more rot after the rain of September 26, and strict selection was crucial," he admitted to me. "But the tannins were riper and our wines avoid the astringency shown by so many '98s." The average yield in '98, according to Confuron, was a paltry 22 hectoliters per hectare. This estate's '97s, bottled without fining or filtration, have turned out impressively.

Since Yves Confuron took over winemaking responsibilities here in 1996, this domain has devoted considerable effort to improving the structure of its vines and forcing the roots deeper, where they are less likely to absorb moisture from minor rainfall. Domaine de Courcel is also harvesting later, bringing in considerably riper fruit than in previous years, a difference that Confuron describes as the most important factor behind the style of today wines. "We would rather eliminate some rotten grapes than risk having any green grapes," explained Confuron, who says that despite the high sugars of the '97 vintage none of the wines were acidified. The estate average yield in '97 was just 27 hectoliters per hectare, according to Confuron. Some cold maceration was done prior to the beginning of the fermentation, and total cuvaison lasted a full month (35 days in '96). The '97s were racked prior to the '98 harvest, and Confuron expected to bottle them this winter, or about four to five months earlier than the '96s. The village Pommard and a bit of premier cru is sold off to the negoces although the estate is bottling an increasing percentage of its production.