2003 Vosne-Romanée Champs Perdrix
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According to cellarmaster Philippe Brun, this estate started picking its white grapes on August 26, and then stopped until September 1.Because they couldn't cool all their tanks at once, they picked only in the mornings.The pinot noirs lack acidity and are rather fragile, says Brun, adding that he believes they are best suited for drinking in their fruity youth.But he maintained that the estate had no surmaturite, and that while the premier crus are virtually all 13% or more alcohol, none of them reached 14%.Incidentally, Clair will not offer a regular Marsannay in 2003, as the estate needed this fruit to make their rose, a wine that is very popular in the U.S. market.(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)